Thessaloniki Travel Guide: Greece's Second City

Thessaloniki is often described as Greece’s second city, but it does not feel like a runner-up. It has a distinct identity — shaped by centuries of Byzantine rule, four centuries of Ottoman administration, a once-enormous Sephardic Jewish community, and decades of proximity to the Balkans. The result is a city with better food than Athens, a working waterfront promenade, and the most impressive collection of Byzantine churches and monuments in the world outside Constantinople itself.

The White Tower and Waterfront

The White Tower (Lefkos Pyrgos) is Thessaloniki’s most recognisable landmark — a 15th-century Ottoman tower on the seafront that was later used as a prison. Now a museum (€4 adult, open 8am–3pm Mon, 8am–8pm Tue–Sun, as of 2026), it tells the city’s layered history across six floors, with the best views from the top terrace.

The waterfront promenade (Nikis Avenue and Leoforos Nikis) runs for several kilometres from the White Tower eastward. It is one of the most effective public spaces in Greece — wide, tree-lined, and heavily used by locals for evening walks, cycling, and sitting in the seafront cafes.

Ano Poli (Upper Town)

The upper town, enclosed by Byzantine walls, is the most intact historic neighbourhood in Thessaloniki. The walls were built in the 4th century and are still mostly standing. Inside, the streets are narrow, the houses are traditional timber-framed Ottoman structures, and the views across the lower city and Gulf of Thessaloniki are excellent.

The Eptapyrgion (Yedi Kule) fortress at the top was used as a prison until 1989. It is now open as a museum (free admission, limited hours).

Byzantine Churches

Thessaloniki has more significant Byzantine churches than any city outside Istanbul. The most important:

Rotunda (Galerius Rotunda): A Roman building (c.306 AD), later converted to a church, then a mosque, now a museum. Entry approximately €4. The interior mosaics from the 4th–5th centuries are exceptional.

Hagia Sophia: A UNESCO World Heritage Site (8th century AD), modelled after the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople. Entry free, open daily during daylight hours.

Church of Saint Demetrios: The largest basilica in Greece, built on the site of the martyrdom of Thessaloniki’s patron saint. Open daily, free entry. The 5th-century mosaics in the apse are among the finest in the Christian world.

Church of Hosios David (Latomou Monastery): A tiny 5th-century church with one of the earliest known large-scale Christian mosaics. Worth seeking out.

Where to Stay in Thessaloniki

Budget: Arabas Thessaloniki Hostel (central, from approximately €18/dorm, well-run), Colors Rooms (near Aristotelous Square, from approximately €60/private).

Mid-range: Electra Palace Thessaloniki (Aristotelous Square, waterfront views, from approximately €120/night), Nea Metropolis Hotel (central, good value, from approximately €85/night), Excelsior Hotel (renovated historic building, from approximately €110/night).

Upmarket: Hyatt Regency Thessaloniki (eastern suburbs, conference-hotel quality, from approximately €160/night), Be My Guest Boutique Hotel (Ano Poli area, small and characterful, from approximately €130/night).

Where to Eat in Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki’s food scene is the best in Greece. Key places:

Bougatsa: Bougatsa Thessalonikis Giannis (Tsimiski 37) and Thessalonikiotiki Bougatsa (Katouni 3) are the most famous — open from early morning, serving the custard-filled pastry warm from the oven with cinnamon and icing sugar. Approximately €2.50–4 per portion.

Modiano and Kapani Markets: Two covered markets in the centre with food stalls, produce, and tavernas inside. Lunch at a market stall costs approximately €8–12.

Ladadika district: The old oil merchants’ quarter, now a restaurant neighbourhood — best for evening mezedes bars and seafood tavernas. Budget approximately €20–35 per person.

To Makedonikon: Classic old-school taverna, traditional dishes at fair prices (approximately €15–25 per person, Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou 64).

Extravaganza: One of the city’s best modern Greek restaurants, creative interpretations of traditional dishes (approximately €35–50 per person, Nikis 13).

Day Trips from Thessaloniki

Vergina (73km): The royal tombs of the Macedonian kings — UNESCO World Heritage Site, housing the intact burial of Philip II (Alexander the Great’s father), with gold armour, weapons, and the famous gold larnax still in situ. The museum is among the finest in Greece. Entry €12 adult, open 8am–8pm daily. Approximately 1.5 hours by car or organised tour.

Pella (44km): The ancient capital of Macedon — the birthplace of Alexander the Great. The archaeological museum houses exceptional mosaic floors in situ. Entry €8 adult. Approximately 45 minutes by car, or KTEL bus from Thessaloniki.

Mount Olympus (85km): The highest peak in Greece (2,918m) and mythological home of the gods — reachable from the town of Litochoro (1.5 hours from Thessaloniki by car or bus). Day hikes from Litochoro reach the lower slopes and the Enipeas gorge; a 2-day hike with mountain hut accommodation reaches the summit.

Chalkidiki Peninsula (75–110km): Three-fingered peninsula south of Thessaloniki with the best beaches in the region — Kassandra and Sithonia peninsulas have excellent sandy beaches and are popular weekend destinations for Thessaloniki residents. The third finger (Mount Athos) is a monastic republic accessible only to men with special permits.

Getting Around Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki’s city centre is compact and mostly walkable. Buses cover the wider city — tickets from the machine on board (approximately €0.90 each). Taxis are metered; most central journeys cost €4–8. The city has invested in cycle infrastructure along the waterfront.

Thessaloniki Airport (Makedonia Airport, SKG) is 16km southeast of the city. Bus 78 runs to the airport from Eleftherias Square approximately every 20 minutes (approximately €0.90). Taxi from the airport to the centre is approximately €25.

The Roman and Jewish Heritage

Galerius Arch (Kamara): The triumphal arch of Emperor Galerius (305 AD), built to commemorate his victory over the Persians — bas-reliefs still visible on the central piers. Free, open at all times.

Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki: The city once had one of the largest Sephardic Jewish communities in the world (nearly half the population in the 19th century). The museum (Agiou Mina 13, entry €5, open Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sun 10am–2pm) documents the community, which numbered 50,000 before the Holocaust; 43,000 were deported to Auschwitz in 1943.

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