Naxos Travel Guide: The Complete Island Guide

Naxos is the largest island in the Cyclades — large enough to be self-sufficient in food, with its own olive oil, potatoes, cheeses, and cattle. This agricultural self-sufficiency gives Naxos a groundedness that Mykonos and Santorini, which import most of their food, lack. The island has everything: excellent beaches, an atmospheric Venetian old town, one of the finest ancient monuments in the Cyclades, mountain villages, and hiking routes through the Naxian countryside.

Naxos Town (Chora)

The main town wraps around a harbour dominated by the Portara — the 6th-century marble doorway on the islet of Palatia. Behind the harbour, the Kastro (Venetian fortress district) sits on a hill above the waterfront, its 13th-century Venetian towers still lived in.

The Portara: Free, always open, best at sunset. The causeway from the harbour takes approximately 10 minutes on foot.

The Kastro: The Venetian quarter — the Venetian towers, the Catholic cathedral, and two good museums. The Archaeological Museum of Naxos (inside the Kastro, entry €6, open 8am–3pm Tue–Sun) has the finest collection of Cycladic marble figurines after the Athens National Museum.

The old market: The agora behind the harbour — good for local products including Naxian graviera cheese, citron liqueur (kitron, unique to Naxos), and local olive oil.

Beaches

Naxos has a 17km stretch of continuous beach on its western coast — one of the longest and best in the Cyclades.

Agios Georgios: The town beach, closest to the port — long, sandy, good for families, with beach bars and watersports. Gets busy in season but is large enough to absorb the crowds.

Agios Prokopios: 8km south of Naxos Town — narrow and fine-grained, considered the best beach on the island. Beach bars, sunbeds, and clear water. Busy in peak season but manageable.

Agia Anna: Extends south from Agios Prokopios — wider, more developed, slightly less crowded at the southern end.

Plaka: The southern continuation — a long stretch of fine white sand, less developed than Agios Anna, parts of it nudist-friendly. One of the finest beaches in the Cyclades.

Mikri Vigla: A windswept beach on the central west coast — excellent for windsurfing and kitesurfing, with wind schools operating from the beach.

The Mountain Villages

Naxos has the most interesting inland landscape of any Cycladic island — a range of marble mountains rising to 1,004m (Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades), with villages of medieval Venetian towers and Byzantine churches scattered through the interior.

Halki: The former capital of Byzantine Naxos — a well-preserved village with Venetian tower houses, Byzantine frescoes in the Church of the Panagia Protothroni (ask at the church for access), and the Vallindras Kitron distillery (free tastings, no fixed hours).

Filoti: The largest mountain village — the main square has good tavernas and a spring that produces some of the best water on the island.

Apiranthos: A marble village high in the mountains, settled by Cretan refugees in the 17th century. The marble-paved lanes and the village museum (small but well-curated) make it worth the drive.

Kouros of Flerio: Two unfinished 7th-century BC marble kouroi (monumental male statues) lying in an olive grove in the Melanes valley — abandoned in transit, left exactly where they fell. Entry free, signposted from Melanes village.

Where to Stay in Naxos

Naxos Town: Naxian Collection (boutique, upper Chora, from approximately €140/night), Hotel Grotta (coastal edge of old town, from approximately €95/night), Chateau Zevgoli (inside the Kastro, from approximately €110/night).

Agios Prokopios/Agia Anna: Naxos Rock Suites (modern, pool, from approximately €200/night peak), Iria Beach Art Hotel (beachfront, from approximately €180/night peak), various studios from approximately €65/night.

Halki (inland): Halki Naxos Residence (converted tower house, from approximately €180/night) — excellent for exploring the interior.

Where to Eat in Naxos

Scirocco (Naxos Town): Considered the best restaurant on the island — creative modern Greek food using exceptional local ingredients. Approximately €40–65 per person. Reserve.

Kavouri (Naxos Town): Good reliable seafood on the harbour promenade, approximately €25–40 per person.

Bikini (Agios Prokopios): Beachfront restaurant, good fish and mezedes, approximately €20–35 per person.

Taverna Pigi Farangas (Halki): Traditional Naxian food in the mountain village, very good value (approximately €15–22 per person). The lamb dishes are particularly good.

Products to buy: Naxian graviera cheese (PDO, nutty and excellent), kitron liqueur (made from citron fruit leaves, unique to Naxos), and local potatoes (Naxian potatoes are famous — the volcanic soil produces a distinct flavour).

Getting Around Naxos

KTEL buses connect Naxos Town to the main beach areas (Agios Prokopios, Agia Anna, Plaka) and to major inland villages (Halki, Filoti, Apiranthos) — approximately €1.80–3 per journey. The beach bus runs every 30 minutes in season. Car hire is recommended for mountain villages and southern beaches — approximately €35–55/day. The road network is good by island standards.

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