The Dodecanese: Complete Guide to Greece's Southeastern

The Dodecanese stretch southeast from the body of Greece like a scattered handful of stones thrown toward the Turkish coast. Twelve main islands — the name comes from the Greek for twelve, dodeca — plus dozens of smaller ones form a chain running roughly 300 kilometres from Patmos in the north to Kastellorizo in the far southeast, where Greece ends just 2 kilometres from the coast of Turkey.

What distinguishes the Dodecanese from other Greek island groups is their layered history. They were the last Greek islands to be incorporated into the modern Greek state, passing from Ottoman control to Italian rule in 1912 and only joining Greece in 1947. The Italian period left a visible architectural legacy — art deco administrative buildings in Rhodes Town, rational-style waterfront structures in Kos, a distinct urban character that sets them apart from the Cyclades or Ionian islands. Beneath that sits Byzantine churches, Crusader castles built by the Knights of St John, Hellenistic ruins, and Ottoman mosques that still stand in Rhodes Town.

The islands also sit within reach of Turkey in a way no other Greek group does. From Rhodes you can see the Turkish mountains. From Kastellorizo, the lights of Kas glow across the water at night. This proximity shapes everything: the architecture, the cuisine, the ferry timetables, and the occasional complexity of travelling here as a non-EU visitor.

The Islands: Character and What to Expect

Rhodes is the capital of the Dodecanese and the fourth-largest island in Greece. Its medieval Old Town — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — is one of the best-preserved in the world, enclosed within 4 kilometres of Crusader walls. The Street of the Knights, the Palace of the Grand Master (entry €8), and the Turkish quarter each occupy distinct layers of the same compact space. Outside the walls, Lindos with its acropolis (entry €12) sits 50 kilometres south, and the west coast has some of the best windsurfing in Europe around Prasonisi. See our full Rhodes travel guide for detail on beaches, hotels, and day trips.

Kos is the most accessible island in the chain after Rhodes, with direct charter flights from across northern Europe and a flat terrain that makes cycling the default way to explore. The ruins of the Asklepion — the ancient healing sanctuary where Hippocrates taught — sit 4 kilometres from Kos Town (entry €8). The island’s eastern beaches at Tigaki and Marmari are shallow and family-friendly; the southern coast at Kefalos Bay is quieter and more dramatic. Bodrum in Turkey is 45 minutes away by hydrofoil, giving Kos an easy international dimension. Our Kos travel guide covers the full island.

Patmos is the most spiritually significant island in the Dodecanese and arguably in all of Greece. The Cave of the Apocalypse — where St John reportedly wrote the Book of Revelation — and the Monastery of St John the Theologian (founded 1088, entry free to the monastery, €5 for the treasury) dominate the hilltop above Chora. The island draws pilgrims year-round and a quieter, more design-conscious crowd in summer. There are no clubs, limited nightlife, and a genuine sense of remove from the package-holiday Aegean. Read more in our Patmos travel guide.

Symi is the island that stops people in their tracks. The harbour at Gialos, lined with neoclassical mansions in terracotta, ochre, and pale yellow, is one of the most photogenic in Greece — and most visitors arrive as day-trippers from Rhodes (1 hour 20 minutes by catamaran), which means staying overnight gives you the island mostly to yourself after 5pm. Panormitis Monastery on the south coast draws its own pilgrims. Boat taxis reach beaches at Nanou, Marathounda, and Agios Georgios that are otherwise inaccessible. Our Symi travel guide has the full picture.

Nisyros is built on an active volcano and is the most geologically dramatic island in the chain. The caldera at Stefanos (free entry) is one of the few places in Greece where you can walk inside a volcanic crater and feel the ground warm beneath you. The island is small, steep, and largely free of package tourism. Mandraki, the capital, has a black-sand beach and a Crusader castle. Most visitors come as day-trippers from Kos (45 minutes) — staying two or three nights reveals a slower, more local island that most people miss.

Karpathos sits between Rhodes and Crete and is large enough to feel like its own world. The north of the island, particularly the village of Olympos, retains traditional dress and customs that have largely disappeared elsewhere in Greece — women in embroidered bodices, windmills still grinding grain. The south has excellent beaches at Kyra Panagia and Apella. The two halves of the island are connected by a famously rough mountain road or by local boat. Karpathos also has its own airport with direct charter connections to northern Europe in summer.

Kastellorizo (also known as Megisti) is the easternmost point of Greece and one of the smallest inhabited islands in the chain, with around 500 permanent residents. There is exactly one village, one harbour, and a scattering of restaurants and guesthouses. The island became internationally known through the film Mediterraneo (1991), which was filmed here, and the blue sea cave at Fokiali is accessible by small boat from the harbour. Kastellorizo is not for everyone — ferry connections are infrequent and flights from Rhodes take 30 minutes — but for those who make the effort, it is genuinely unlike anywhere else in Greece.

Halki is even smaller than Kastellorizo and easier to reach, lying 16 kilometres west of Rhodes. The port village of Emborio has neoclassical houses similar to Symi’s, but without the crowds. The island has no cars beyond a handful of service vehicles, no ATM, and limited accommodation — book months ahead in peak season. A small castle above the village and a handful of pebble beaches are the extent of the sights. The pace is the point.

Tilos sits between Nisyros and Rhodes and has built a reputation as one of the most environmentally committed islands in the Aegean. It was one of the first Greek islands to run entirely on renewable energy. There are no nightclubs, no loud bars, and the island actively limits mass tourism. Walking trails connect the villages, and the wetlands around Eristos Beach attract migrating birds. Tilos is a genuine alternative for travellers who find Rhodes and Kos too developed.

Getting to the Dodecanese from Athens

By air: Olympic Air and Sky Express operate multiple daily flights from Athens Eleftherios Venizelos (ATH) to Rhodes (RHO), with journey times of around 55 minutes and fares from approximately €45 one way when booked in advance. Rhodes is also served by direct flights from London Gatwick, Manchester, Amsterdam, Frankfurt, and Vienna with easyJet, Ryanair, TUI, and Condor in summer. Kos Airport (KGS) has direct Athens connections and its own share of European charters. Karpathos (AOK) has summer charters from Germany and the UK. Kastellorizo (KZS) is served by small propeller aircraft from Rhodes only, with connections operated by Olympic Air (around €60, 30 minutes).

By ferry from Athens (Piraeus): ANEK Lines and Blue Star Ferries both operate overnight services from Piraeus to the Dodecanese, typically calling at Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos, Kos, and Rhodes. The full run to Rhodes takes 14 to 18 hours depending on the routing. Cabins are available and recommended for overnight crossings — a two-berth cabin costs approximately €60 to €90 extra on top of the deck or seat fare. SeaJets operates high-speed catamaran services on some routes in summer, cutting journey times significantly but increasing prices.

From Bodrum, Turkey: Hydrofoil services connect Bodrum to Kos in around 45 minutes (approximately €35 one way). Day excursions to Bodrum from Kos are popular and can be booked at the port or through local travel agents. Note that this counts as exiting and re-entering the Schengen Area.

Island Hopping the Dodecanese

The Dodecanese divides naturally into two sub-routes: the northern cluster (Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos, Kos) and the southern cluster (Rhodes, Symi, Tilos, Nisyros, Halki, Karpathos). Kastellorizo sits at the end of a spur from Rhodes.

Northern route: Fly or ferry to Kos, then work north through Kalymnos (30 minutes by ferry, famous for its sponge-diving tradition), Leros (1 hour), and Patmos (2 to 3 hours). From Patmos you can loop south or take a ferry north toward Samos and the Aegean proper.

Southern route: Base in Rhodes, then take day trips or short stays to Symi (1 hour 20 minutes by catamaran, operators include Symi Visitor or Dodekanisos Seaways), Halki (1.5 hours), Tilos (2.5 hours), and Nisyros (2.5 hours via Kos). Karpathos requires a longer ferry crossing (approximately 3.5 hours from Rhodes on Blue Star Ferries) or a direct charter flight.

Dodekanisos Seaways operates the most useful high-speed catamaran network within the island chain, linking Rhodes, Kos, Symi, Tilos, Nisyros, Karpathos, Kastellorizo, and the northern islands on a network of timetabled routes. Their catamarans carry passengers only — no vehicles. Blue Star Ferries and ANEK cover the slower overnight routes and are the only option if you are travelling with a car. Book at least a week ahead in July and August for any high-speed service.

Best Time to Visit

May and June are the best months across the whole chain. The sea is warm enough to swim by late May (around 22°C off Rhodes), accommodation is 30 to 40% cheaper than peak, and the tourist infrastructure is fully operational without the midsummer crush.

July and August are peak season. Rhodes and Kos are very busy, ferry tickets sell out on popular routes, and prices for accommodation double or more compared to shoulder season. The meltemi wind blows strongly across open water in August, which can disrupt catamaran services between islands and make some beaches uncomfortable. That said, the islands are full of life and both months are excellent if booked well in advance.

September and October are arguably the best months of all for Rhodes specifically. The sea is warmest in September (around 25°C), the crowds have thinned, and the sun continues well into October. Many beach clubs stay open until mid-October. The northern islands — Patmos, Leros — slow down faster after September; Kastellorizo and Halki start closing in late October.

November to April sees most of the smaller islands running on minimal services. Tilos, Halki, Kastellorizo, and Nisyros have very few businesses open in winter. Rhodes and Kos remain liveable year-round, with a local population that sustains restaurants and shops, but expect reduced ferry frequencies and a quieter experience than the brochures suggest.

Where to Stay

Rhodes covers every budget tier. Budget travellers do well in the Old Town itself — guesthouses like Spot Hotel or Marco Polo Mansion run from €70 to €110 per night for doubles in a genuinely historic setting. Mid-range hotels cluster around Ixia and Ialyssos on the west coast, typically €120 to €180 per night with pools and beach access. The luxury tier — Lindos Blu, Ikos Aria, Sheraton Rhodes Resort — runs €300 to €600 per night, with private beach concessions and spa facilities.

Kos Town has solid mid-range options along the harbour and in the old quarter. Astron Hotel and Kos Aktis Art Hotel both run approximately €90 to €160 per night in summer and are well positioned for the old town and beach. Resort hotels concentrate around Lambi and Psalidi, from €100 to €250 per night.

Patmos skews boutique and premium. Skala, the port village, has guesthouses from around €80 per night; Chora, up the hill, has more atmospheric options in converted stone houses from €100 to €200. The island has no large resort hotels; that is the point.

Symi accommodation is limited and fills fast. Harbour-facing rooms in Gialos run €90 to €180 per night in July and August. Book three to four months ahead for any weekend stay in peak season.

Karpathos is surprisingly affordable given its size. Mid-range hotels in Pigadia (the main town) start from €60 per night. The north of the island has a handful of small guesthouses around Diafani from €55 per night.

Tilos and Halki are genuinely budget-friendly by Aegean standards, with doubles in simple guesthouses from €50 to €70 per night, though choice is very limited — book early regardless of your budget.

Book Dodecanese island tours and day trips from Rhodes with GetYourGuide — Rhodes is the main hub for excursions to Symi, Halki, Nisyros, and Tilos.

Search hotels in Dodecanese, Greece on Booking.com

Food and Drink

The Dodecanese kitchen borrows from both the Greek mainland and the Ottoman/Turkish traditions that shaped these islands for centuries. Rhodes is known for pitaroudia (chickpea fritters), melekouni (honey and sesame bars eaten at weddings), and fresh fish from the Aegean. Kos produces excellent local wine. On Patmos, look for local honey and the fish caught in the deep waters around the north coast.

In Rhodes Old Town, Hatzikelis restaurant near Sofokleoys Square is consistently good for fish, with mains around €18 to €30. Marco Polo Cafe in the Turkish quarter serves good mezedes. In Kos Town, Pote tin Kyriaki on Plateia Eleftherias is a reliable local favourite with grilled meat and dips from around €12 per person. On Symi, anything along the Gialos harbour terrace is serviceable but touristy — walk up toward Ano Symi for better value and a more local crowd.